Hotel Onda Verde

 

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Hotel Onda Verde Amalfi Coast Italy
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CAPRI SWIMMING

 

  Marina Piccola di Capri   Panoramica Marina Piccola
       
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OVERVIEW

Capri Swimming

A "beach" on the island of Capri is any narrow strip of rocks from which you can swim without having to dive or jump off a cliff. Without a private boat, options for swimming in Capri include hotel pools, the more ample beach of sand and pebbles at the port of Marina Grande, replete with fuel scum from yacht and hydrofoil, or Marina Piccola, a short bus ride or a long winding walk from the Piazzetta. We walked, missing the hidden access to a zillion steps directly down to what Frommer calls "the major beach." Actually, it was a teeny, tiny, rocky incline to the water, where people were shoulder to shoulder as they stretched out on their towels, though we were a whole month ahead of high season.

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There were one or two restaurants which, for a fee, provided chairs and towels, but the best deal was a fine little promontory of rocks strewn with flat concrete slabs holding beach chairs, plus a ladder down to the sea, all for $12. The legacy of aristocracy prevails on European beaches, and if you want a tranquil spot, it will cost, separating the haves from the have-nots. I stayed shoulder to shoulder among the peons until late day, when the private enclave began to empty out, then swam over to their ladder and enjoyed the still strong sun in comfort and style.

A better option, and not an advertised one, is to make your way from the center of Capri to the Via Tragara, and walk to the Faraglioni, then descend the interminable cliff-side steps to the sea. Awaiting you are two lovely waterfront restaurants. Pick one, eat lunch, sunbathe on their lounges, and go down their ladder to the clearest and cleanest water, staring ahead at the giant signature rocks of Capri, the rocks of the sirens where the legendary blue lizards are or once were, since I never saw one.

Another swim option is to take the bus to Anacapri and the entrance to the Blue Grotto. Just above the entrance is the Bagno Nettuna, at Via Grotta Azzurra, 42. The drama of the jagged lava rocks and the plunge to the sea, plus lunch, a swimming pool, cabana towels and deck chairs is a good deal. Just below this is another garden restaurant, without a pool but with a great lobster lunch and levels of cabana chairs on the private rocky ledges so you can sun contentedly and, if you dare, jump into the sea below.

 
 

Hotel Onda Verde
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Via Terramare, - N 3 - 84010 Praiano (Salerno) - Italy - Amalfi Coast
Tel.: +39 089 874143 - +39 089 874125 - Fax.: +39 089 8131049

 

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